Proximity Access Issues and "Restart Now or Key Needed" Error

nrlucas

Jan 14, 2025

Tue at 8:55 pm

When I originally bought my (used) '21 Bronco Badlands, the dealership did not tell me what the code was for the PIN pad that was installed on the driver door. I found some videos that indicated that the default code is posted behind the panel near the driver's knee and was able to retrieve it. But the default code didn't work. (Turns out, I was just doing it wrong, but that's a different story). So I took it to the dealership and had them reprogram it. Annoyingly, they handed me a card with the same code I found behind the panel. So I'm pretty sure they charged me $35 for nothing....but that's part of that other story I mentioned. THIS story is that, ever since then, I have been having tons of trouble with the Bronco unlocking when I have the FOB in my pocket. Before, I could stroll up, reach out at a natural distance to touch the door handle, and it would open. Now, I have to put whichever pocket my key is in right up against the door, in order to get it to unlock by touch. This happens regardless of whether access the driver door or tailgate. I have also been getting frequent "Restart Now or Key Needed" errors. I have replaced the battery in the FOB with no change. When I use my other FOB (which does have a low battery) it will warn me that it has a low battery. It is not giving me the low battery warning on the FOB that I replaced the battery on. I have seen some other threads where this has happened at specific locations, and people suspect RF interference. But this is a constant issue, regardless of location. It's getting quite irritating, particularly when my hands are full and then I have to contort my body to get the FOB to a point where the Bronco can detect it.

My question is, would anything about the PIN pad reprogramming process result in these symptoms? Is there anything else you can think of that I could check? I'm going to swap the good battery to the other FOB (that currently has a low battery) to see if the behavior happens with both FOBs or if it is isolated to one particular FOB. I was hoping to not have to make another dealership visit until they figure out what they're going to do with the Intake Valve recall issue. But I don't think I can deal with it for that long.

TK1215

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Tue at 9:42 pm

You can't reprogram the keypad on the Bronco, so very curious what the dealer actually did.

But anyway, there are antennas throughout the vehicle for the key fob. Perhaps maybe they did something that caused the antenna to come loose?? Not sure. Admittedly, I'm grasping at straws a bit because you can't reprogram that keypad.

My guess is they looked up the keypad PIN code in the dealer system and then just programmed a personal entry code that matches the card?? Maybe?? Not sure. But that's something you can do without the help of the dealer. Did it on my own Bronco here:

2022 4dr Badlands, 2.3L Manual, Mid pkg
YouTube: youtube.com/@ragnarkon

nrlucas

Wed at 2:15 pm

nrlucas
When I originally bought my (used) '21 Bronco Badlands, the dealership did not tell me what the code was for the PIN pad that was installed on the driver door. I found some videos that indicated that the default code is posted behind the panel near the driver's knee and was able to retrieve it. But the default code didn't work. (Turns out, I was just doing it wrong, but that's a different story). So I took it to the dealership and had them reprogram it. Annoyingly, they handed me a card with the same code I found behind the panel. So I'm pretty sure they charged me $35 for nothing....but that's part of that other story I mentioned. THIS story is that, ever since then, I have been having tons of trouble with the Bronco unlocking when I have the FOB in my pocket. Before, I could stroll up, reach out at a natural distance to touch the door handle, and it would open. Now, I have to put whichever pocket my key is in right up against the door, in order to get it to unlock by touch. This happens regardless of whether access the driver door or tailgate. I have also been getting frequent "Restart Now or Key Needed" errors. I have replaced the battery in the FOB with no change. When I use my other FOB (which does have a low battery) it will warn me that it has a low battery. It is not giving me the low battery warning on the FOB that I replaced the battery on. I have seen some other threads where this has happened at specific locations, and people suspect RF interference. But this is a constant issue, regardless of location. It's getting quite irritating, particularly when my hands are full and then I have to contort my body to get the FOB to a point where the Bronco can detect it.

My question is, would anything about the PIN pad reprogramming process result in these symptoms? Is there anything else you can think of that I could check? I'm going to swap the good battery to the other FOB (that currently has a low battery) to see if the behavior happens with both FOBs or if it is isolated to one particular FOB. I was hoping to not have to make another dealership visit until they figure out what they're going to do with the Intake Valve recall issue. But I don't think I can deal with it for that long.

Hi there. I’d like to assist with your concern. Could you please send us a DM with your VIN and mileage so I can look into this further?

Wed at 3:52 pm

RagnarKon
You can't reprogram the keypad on the Bronco, so very curious what the dealer actually did.

But anyway, there are antennas throughout the vehicle for the key fob. Perhaps maybe they did something that caused the antenna to come loose?? Not sure. Admittedly, I'm grasping at straws a bit because you can't reprogram that keypad.

My guess is they looked up the keypad PIN code in the dealer system and then just programmed a personal entry code that matches the card?? Maybe?? Not sure. But that's something you can do without the help of the dealer. Did it on my own Bronco here:

Upon reviewing the invoice, you are correct. They listed it as a "code retrieval". In spite of the fact that I told them that I already had the factory code from behind the panel and that it was not working. At which point, they could have verified that the code WAS working, and that I just wasn't using it correctly since I didn't get the original card with instructions on it. So I paid $36 for them to tell me a code I already knew. And I know both of the methods of retrieval...NEITHER of which is worth $36. Which I think they should be ashamed of. This is also why I hate going to the shop in general. You give the service tech the most detailed description possible and he distills it down to a few useless words.

That being said, I did some more testing. When I approach the passenger door, it has a snappy response and no issues with proximity. So it's only the driver door and tailgate that are having issues. This leads me to believe that perhaps the left side antenna is the issue. At the same service visit, they did the customer satisfaction program for the front seatbelts, as well as replacing the retractors for both of the back seat seatbelts. I'm wondering if the left side antenna is in the vicinity of either of those pillar panels and might have gotten bumped loose while they were performing that work?

Wed at 4:54 pm

I did some more digging around and found this diagram that seems to indicate that there is a sensor behind the rear cargo panel. I am now highly suspecting that this is my problem. Now...to wait for this cold snap to move out so I don't freeze my keister off trying to get to it.

Screenshot 2025-01-15 at 11.52.18 AM.jpg

Thu at 7:46 pm

Just continuing to add stuff to this thread as I find it, so people with the same issue have the resources they need to get it figured out. I like to have the full context of a situation in mind before I dive into it. The drawing above is useful. But I found this video by 1Five1 Garage that covers where all the clips are for that side panel and you actually get a really good look at the driver side antenna. I've provided a link right before they pull the panel off and you can see the module and harness clearly.

Thu at 7:55 pm

That is a useful video for taking all that apart, or at least that is what I looked at when I took it all apart last year. Its worth while ordering a few extra clips before you take off the side pannels- those clips like to break. The antenna for that is right there in the side. When I first did this, I forgot to plug it back in. I found the key worked on the front, but not the tailgate. Once I figured out my mistake, opened it back up, and then plugged it back in, it worked fine.

If you have two keys, I would be curious if you are getting the same result with both. If you are, I would think thats an antenna problem. If not, I would think it is (one of) the keys.

2023 Wildtrak. "Sometimes you got to get lost, to get found" -J Bronco

Sven

Yesterday at 5:46 pm

Mal
That is a useful video for taking all that apart, or at least that is what I looked at when I took it all apart last year. Its worth while ordering a few extra clips before you take off the side pannels- those clips like to break. The antenna for that is right there in the side. When I first did this, I forgot to plug it back in. I found the key worked on the front, but not the tailgate. Once I figured out my mistake, opened it back up, and then plugged it back in, it worked fine.

If you have two keys, I would be curious if you are getting the same result with both. If you are, I would think thats an antenna problem. If not, I would think it is (one of) the keys.

It happens with either key and APPEARS to not be related to a low battery. I know for sure that one fob has a low battery, and the dash tells me as much when I start the vehicle with it. The other fob does not receive the same warning. However, both have the proximity issue at the driver door and tailgate.

I'm curious...since you've had yours this disassembled...do you think it would be possible to reach the antenna and harness from the small panel that is easily removable above the pocket on the left panel? I don't foresee it being warm enough here in Indiana anytime in the near future to spend too much time out in my unheated garage trying to fix it.

Also...I see that you put some sound deadener back there. Do you feel like it made any significant difference in road noise? I suppose if I have to strip it down completely, I might as well do that while I'm in there.

Yesterday at 6:43 pm

nrlucas
When I originally bought my (used) '21 Bronco Badlands, the dealership did not tell me what the code was for the PIN pad that was installed on the driver door. I found some videos that indicated that the default code is posted behind the panel near the driver's knee and was able to retrieve it. But the default code didn't work. (Turns out, I was just doing it wrong, but that's a different story). So I took it to the dealership and had them reprogram it. Annoyingly, they handed me a card with the same code I found behind the panel. So I'm pretty sure they charged me $35 for nothing....but that's part of that other story I mentioned. THIS story is that, ever since then, I have been having tons of trouble with the Bronco unlocking when I have the FOB in my pocket. Before, I could stroll up, reach out at a natural distance to touch the door handle, and it would open. Now, I have to put whichever pocket my key is in right up against the door, in order to get it to unlock by touch. This happens regardless of whether access the driver door or tailgate. I have also been getting frequent "Restart Now or Key Needed" errors. I have replaced the battery in the FOB with no change. When I use my other FOB (which does have a low battery) it will warn me that it has a low battery. It is not giving me the low battery warning on the FOB that I replaced the battery on. I have seen some other threads where this has happened at specific locations, and people suspect RF interference. But this is a constant issue, regardless of location. It's getting quite irritating, particularly when my hands are full and then I have to contort my body to get the FOB to a point where the Bronco can detect it.

My question is, would anything about the PIN pad reprogramming process result in these symptoms? Is there anything else you can think of that I could check? I'm going to swap the good battery to the other FOB (that currently has a low battery) to see if the behavior happens with both FOBs or if it is isolated to one particular FOB. I was hoping to not have to make another dealership visit until they figure out what they're going to do with the Intake Valve recall issue. But I don't think I can deal with it for that long.

I had all sorts of stuff pop up about 8 months ago. It ended up being the car battery. All the electronics are constantly draining it. Maybe ask them to check how it is charging. Mine started throwing up the weird codes and about a month later it stopped holding the charge. Just a thought. Let us know what it ends up being.

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